Stem stitch is one of the most useful stitches in hand embroidery. It creates a smooth, rope-like line that works well for outlines, stems, and curved shapes. Once you have it, you'll reach for it constantly.
Sarah Homfray is a Royal School of Needlework graduate and professional hand embroiderer. In this tutorial she teaches stem stitch and its sister stitch, outline stitch - and explains exactly when to use each one.
The two stitches are almost identical. The only difference is which side the loop falls on. That single detail controls how the stitch behaves around curves. By the end you'll have both in your toolkit.
What stem stitch is for
Each stitch overlaps the one before by about half its length, so the line reads as a twisted cord instead of a row of dashes. That twist is why it is the go-to for flower stems, trailing vines, curved outlines and cursive lettering. It bends around a curve without the corners you get from straight stitches. Work several rows side by side and it even becomes a fill, which is how a lot of traditional crewel leaves are shaded.
Keep the thread on the same side, every stitch
This is the one rule. In the video the loop falls to the right and the working thread comes out on the left. Hold that for the whole line. If the thread swaps sides halfway along, the twist reverses and that section turns into outline stitch. Up close it looks fine. At arm's length you see a kink where the rope changes direction.
Make it a habit: before each stitch, check where the thread is and tuck it to the same side with your thumb.
Stitch length on curves
On a straight line, 2-3mm stitches give a tidy rope. On a curve, halve them. Long stitches cut across the bend and turn a smooth arc into a string of flat chords. The tighter the curve, the shorter the stitch. In lettering, that small stitch is what keeps the bowl of an "a" or "e" round.
Stem vs split vs backstitch
| Stitch | Look | Best for |
|---|
| Stem | Twisted rope, slightly raised | Stems, vines, flowing curves |
| Split stitch | Solid line, fine braided texture, flatter | Outlines, edges under satin stitch |
| Backstitch | Clean row of separate dashes | Small lettering, sharp corners |
Whipped stem stitch for a smoother line
Work a normal line of stem stitch. Then take a second thread, same color or a contrast, and wrap it over each stitch without going into the fabric. Slide the needle under each stitch from the same side every time. The wrap fills the tiny gaps and leaves a smooth raised cord, which is a nice finish for embroidered lettering you want to stand out.
Common mistakes
- Thread flipping sides. The twist reverses. Unpick back to the switch and carry on with the thread on the original side.
- Stitches too long on curves. The line goes angular. Shorten them on every bend.
- Pulling tight. The fabric puckers and the rope flattens. Snug, not strained, with the fabric drum-tight in the hoop.
- Random entry points. Coming up anywhere along the last stitch makes a lumpy cord. Aim for the midpoint every time.
Once the stems are in, add leaves and petals with the lazy daisy stitch. The two together cover most simple floral designs.
