How to Chain Stitch: Basic + 3 Variations

EmbroideryEasy5:435 steps

By ShowMeStepByStepPublished May 9, 2026Updated May 10, 2026

Based on a video by Marion's World.

The chain stitch is the embroidery stitch that opens a door. Once you can do it, you can do feathers, flowers, vines, lettering, outlines - anything that needs a thicker line than a backstitch can provide. And the variations on the basic chain (backwards, whipped, cable) extend the stitch into completely different decorative looks without learning a new technique.

Marion's World walks through the basic chain stitch and three variations on a labeled hoop in just under 6 minutes. The labeled hoop format makes this perfect for practicing - you can stitch each variation directly under its name to build a quick reference sampler.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Forward Chain Stitch (the Basic)

0:25

Bring your needle up at the start of your line. Go BACK DOWN in the same hole, then take a stitch the length you want each chain link to be. Don't pull the thread tight - leave a loop on top.

Bring the needle up INSIDE that loop. As you pull through, pull in the direction of travel (not up or back). That makes a clean rounded chain link instead of a flat line.

Tip

The number one beginner mistake is pulling the thread up instead of forward. If your chain looks like a straight line, you're pulling wrong. Always pull in the direction of travel.

Products used in this step

DMC Embroidery Floss PackView product

Wooden Embroidery Hoop 6 InchView product

Embroidery Needle SetView product

Step 2: Anchor the Last Chain

1:30

When you reach the end of your chain row, bring the needle up inside the last loop like you've been doing. But this time, take the needle DOWN OVER the top of that loop - this creates a small straight stitch that anchors the chain so it can't unravel.

Pull through, cut your thread on the back side, and you have a finished chain row.

Step 3: Backwards Chain Stitch (Alternate Method)

1:50

Some people find this easier than the forward chain. Start with a tiny anchoring straight stitch. Bring the needle up one chain length further along the line.

Now thread the needle UNDER the anchor stitch (without piercing the fabric). Take the needle back down in the same hole you came up from - that's your first chain. Continue working backwards, threading under each previous chain.

Tip

Backwards chain looks identical to forward chain when finished. Pick whichever method feels more natural in your hand.

Step 4: Whipped Chain Stitch (Decorative Variation)

3:15

Lay down a normal chain stitch row first (forward or backward, your choice). Then bring up a contrasting thread color - pearl cotton works especially well here.

Whip the contrast thread under each chain link, going in the same direction along the row. Don't pierce the fabric - just slide the needle under the chain. The result is a thicker, embellished line that looks like a twisted cord.

Tip

Pearl cotton has more sheen than regular floss and shows up better in the whip. If you only have floss, use all 6 strands of contrast thread for the whip.

Products used in this step

DMC Pearl Cotton Size 8View product

Step 5: Cable Chain Stitch (One Extra Wrap)

3:40

Cable chain has one extra step compared to forward chain. Before each chain, wrap the thread once around the needle. Take the stitch down keeping the loop open, then pull the chain forward as normal.

The wrap creates a tiny knot between each chain, so the row looks like a chain with little beads between the links - a cable or rope effect. Keep the wraps consistent so the spacing looks even.

Products Used

DMC Embroidery Floss PackView Wooden Embroidery Hoop 6 InchView Embroidery Needle SetView DMC Pearl Cotton Size 8View

Your Guide

Marion's World

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