How to Whitewash Wood: 5 Easy Methods

Sand the boards to 150 grit, then wipe off all the sawdust with a clean rag. Any dust left behind gets trapped in the finish. Brush on a pre-stain wood conditioner and let it soak in as the can directs. Conditioner prepares the surface so the whitewash stain soaks in evenly, which matters a lot on oak.

Use a foam brush to lay a generous coat of white wash wood stain over the whole surface, working along the grain. Do not worry about it looking too white. You will wipe most of it off. Let the stain sit and soak into the wood for about 10 minutes.

Take a clean, lint-free rag and wipe the excess stain off along the grain. This is the step that sets the look. Wipe evenly for a consistent finish, or press harder in some places to pull off more white for a time-worn look. Do this in the same light the finished piece will sit in, so you can judge it.

For an even, very matte finish, mix white chalk paint with water about 1 to 1. Brush it onto sanded poplar, then rub it in with a rag to even it out. The thin paint soaks straight into the wood and leaves a soft haze over the grain. Add more coats if you want less grain to show.

For a rustic look, use rough, unsanded fir boards and a thicker mix, about 70 percent chalk paint to 30 percent water. Brush it on heavily and leave it, no wiping. Paint at least three sides of each board before you assemble a panel. Leave small gaps between rough boards, using popsicle sticks as spacers, in case they move.

The boards now look almost solid white. Take a sanding sponge, about 120 grit, and sand over the surface. It knocks the paint off the high points of the grain and lets a little natural wood color show through. Sand more for a weathered look or lightly for a few hints of wood.

For an old-world look, use tile grout. Dampen the cedar boards with water first. Then spread a thick coat of white grout over the surface with a putty knife, pushing it into the gaps between boards, knot holes and dents. Sanded and unsanded grout both work. Damp wood helps the grout spread and stops it drying too fast.

Use a wet rag or sponge to even out the grout coat. Wipe back until you like how much wood shows. The grout grips the wood fibers and stays in the grain, gaps and knots, which gives a plastered, vintage look. Rinse the rag often so you move grout around rather than smearing it.

For the most even white, combine two methods. Sand wide fir boards to 150 grit, apply wood conditioner, then apply white wash stain and wipe it back, the same way as the oak. Let the whitewash cure fully before the next layer. Wearing gloves keeps the stain off your hands.

Spread a layer of grout over the cured whitewash and wipe it back with a damp sponge. It fills the recesses in curved or warped boards and adds one more layer of white for a hazy, even finish. This combo works well for headboards, loft floors and feature walls, anywhere wide boards save you time.