How to Knit a Gauge Swatch That Measures True

Check your pattern for the gauge, such as 20 stitches over 4 inches. Cast on that number plus 6, so 26 stitches here. Use the same yarn and needles you plan to use for the project. Knit every row for 5 or 6 rows. That makes a garter stitch border along the bottom that stops the swatch from curling.

On the next right side row, knit the first 3 stitches for the side border. Then knit about 5 stitches, make one, knit 10 more and make one again. Add 1 stitch for every 10 you planned for the stockinette. These extra stitches stop the garter border from flaring and give you spare edge stitches to leave out when you measure.

On the wrong side, knit the first 3 stitches, purl across until 3 stitches remain, then knit those last 3. On right side rows, knit every stitch. The first and last 3 stitches stay in garter stitch the whole way up. That forms a neat frame at each side so the swatch lies flat without rolling.

Keep working the rows until you have about 2 inches of stockinette above the border. Finish on a right side row. Two inches is enough fabric to get a fair first reading without the top and bottom edges pulling at the stitches. It also saves you from knitting a full swatch on the wrong needles.

Lay the swatch flat with the needle still in. Set a gauge ruler on the stockinette and count the stitches across 4 inches. Leave out the border and the two extra stitches next to it. Roxanne counted exactly 20, so she kept going. If you are off by a full stitch or more, plan to change needles.

If your gauge is off, do not rip it out. Grab the next needle size up or down. Knit across the next wrong side row instead of purling. That leaves a garter ridge that marks where the needles changed. Then knit another 2 inches with the new pair, and note which needle made which section.

Once the stockinette reaches about 4 inches, work 2 decreases on the next right side row, in about the same places as your increases. That brings you back to the cast on count. Knit 5 or 6 rows of garter stitch for the top border, then bind off loosely. Fresh off the needles it will roll a little and feel stiff.

Lay the swatch flat without stretching it. Measure across the center stockinette again, leaving out the edge stitches. Write down the stitches per 4 inches and the rows per 4 inches. You need this number to see how much the fabric changes after washing. Some knitters find it grows quite a bit.

Wash the swatch the way the yarn label says. For plain wool, soak it in a bowl of warm water for at least 20 minutes. Wool holds air and needs time to soak through. Squeeze the water out gently, never wring it. Then roll the swatch up in an old towel and press to pull out as much water as you can.

Lay the damp swatch on a mat or towel. Smooth the stitches with your hands and push it in a little so nothing is stretched. Pin the garter corners only if you want to. Let it dry completely, then measure once more. That dry, washed number is your true gauge. Pick the needle that matches it.