How to Make a Concrete Candle Holder

Cut a few flat pieces of scrap wood to size and hot glue them into an open box. Glenn uses hot glue on purpose here. It holds the form together while the concrete cures but pulls apart easily when you need to demold. Make the inside dimensions the size you want your finished block to be. Keep the corners square so the concrete sets with clean edges.

Lay out where each tea light will sit. Glenn draws reference lines on the mold floor and centers the candle marks so the holes come out evenly spaced. He tried to eyeball it first and it did not work, so grab a measuring tape and mark it properly. Set the candle discs on your marks so you can see the spacing before the concrete goes in.

Dump your concrete mix into a bucket and add water a little at a time. Stir until it is thick and spreadable, about the texture of oatmeal. Do not overdo the water. Glenn admits he made his batch too watery, which still works but takes a lot longer to dry. Aim for a mix that holds its shape when you scoop it.

Scoop the concrete into the mold and level the top. While it is still wet, press a tea light into each of your marked spots to form the candle holes. Set it outside in the sun to speed up drying. After about 20 minutes, pull the candles back out so they do not get stuck. You just want the holes they leave behind.

Once the concrete is firm enough to hold its own shape, peel the wood form away. Three sides usually come off easy. The fourth might fight you a bit, so work it loose slowly. After a couple days of full curing the base board separates on its own too. Now you have a solid concrete block with four candle holes.

Give the block a quick sand to knock off the rough edges and any loose grit. Then brush on a concrete lacquer. Glenn uses a wet-look masonry lacquer, which darkens the concrete and seals it so the dust stops rubbing off on your hands. If you prefer the natural matte gray, use a clear dry-look sealer instead. Either way, sealing protects the finish.

Cut a frame from 1x2 pine and miter the corners. Use a bucket rim or any curved object to trace an arch on the bottom edge, then cut it out on a band saw. No band saw? Leave the bottom straight, the arch is just for looks. Sand it smooth, glue and pin the corners together, then brush on a mahogany gel stain and wipe off the excess.

Drill a small hole in each corner of the base and press in cabinet bumpers so the piece does not scratch your table. Mix up some epoxy and spread it on the inner part of the base, keeping it away from the edges so it does not squeeze out. Set the concrete block on top, add a little weight, and let it cure. Drop in the tea lights and light them up.