How to Crochet a Frog (Beginner Amigurumi Pattern)

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Based on a video by CrochetGrove.

This little frog is the kind of project that sells out at craft markets and disappears off shelves the moment you finish it. The whole thing is one piece - body, head, arms, legs - worked in a continuous spiral from a single magic ring. No sewing, no color changes, just steady single crochet with a few bobble stitches for the eyes, arms, and legs.

Annabelle from CrochetGrove walks through every round in real time. If you've already made a magic ring and stitched a few rows of single crochet, you can finish this frog tonight. It runs about 15 minutes of pure crochet time, plus a few minutes for stuffing, blushing, and gluing on a felt smile.

What you'll need

You can swap yarns freely - the pattern works with any worsted or chunky weight as long as you size the hook to match. The version in the video uses Yarn Bee Dolce chenille (about $7.99 for a small skein) and a 3.25 mm Clover Amour hook. The chenille gives the finished frog that soft, plushie texture; a regular acrylic worsted will give you a tighter, sturdier toy.

You'll also want 12 mm safety eyes, polyfill stuffing, a stitch marker, a yarn needle, and a felt smile (Annabelle uses the "Cheeky Smile" appliques from Jen's Crafty Creations). If you'd rather embroider the mouth, a length of black embroidery floss works fine.

Stitch abbreviations

Before you start, here's the shorthand the on-screen pattern uses:

  • MR - magic ring (see our magic ring walkthrough if you're new to it)
  • sc - single crochet
  • inc - increase (two single crochets in one stitch)
  • dec - decrease (invisible decrease preferred)
  • BO - bobble (5 double crochets worked into one stitch and pulled through together)

Choosing your yarn color

Classic frog green is the obvious pick, but this pattern doesn't care - work it in lavender for a chubby pastel friend, in brown for a toad, or in pink for a strawberry-frog hybrid. Single-color amigurumi is the friendliest place to practice because you never stop to change yarns mid-round.

More amigurumi animals to try next

Once you've finished your frog, the same shape language transfers straight to other animals. Each of these uses a magic-ring start, continuous rounds, and the same bobble-stitch trick for facial features:

Tips before you start

Work tighter than you think you need to. Loose amigurumi shows the stuffing through the gaps. If you can see your finger through the fabric when you hold a finished round up to the light, drop down a hook size.

Keep your stitch marker in the first stitch of each round. The whole frog is worked in a continuous spiral - there are no slip stitches between rounds - so the marker is the only way to know where the round starts and stops.

Place the safety eyes carefully. They lock in permanently once you snap the washer on. Hold the frog up at arm's length to check the placement before committing.

Step-by-Step Guide

1

Step 1: Start with a Magic Ring and 6 Single Crochets

1:00
Step 1: Step 1: Start with a Magic Ring and 6 Single Crochets

Wrap the yarn around your two fingers and cross it into an X on top. Insert the hook under the front strand, grab the back strand, and pull it through. Yarn over and pull up a chain to lock the loop in place.

Now work 6 single crochets into the ring. Count them out loud as you go - this is round 1 of the whole frog, so you want exactly 6. Once you have all 6 stitches, pull the yarn tail to close the ring tight. The hole should disappear completely.

Tip

New to magic rings? Our magic ring walkthrough shows the wrap-and-pull motion frame by frame. It's the single most useful stitch for amigurumi and worth practicing once on a scrap of yarn before you start the frog.

2

Step 2: Round 2 - Six Increases (12 Stitches)

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Step 2: Step 2: Round 2 - Six Increases (12 Stitches)

Round 2 doubles the stitch count. Place an increase (2 single crochets) in each of the 6 stitches from round 1. That's 12 single crochets total.

Before you start, drop a stitch marker into the very first stitch. You're working in a continuous spiral - no joins, no chains - so the marker is your only way to find where the round begins. Move it up at the start of every new round.

Tip

If your stitches are leaning to one side, that's normal for a spiral. Don't try to correct it - amigurumi closes up beautifully when stuffed.

Products used in this step

3

Step 3: Round 3 - Single Crochet + Increase (18 Stitches)

2:15
Step 3: Step 3: Round 3 - Single Crochet + Increase (18 Stitches)

Round 3 is one single crochet, then one increase, repeated 6 times all the way around. That brings you to 18 stitches.

By now the disc is starting to cup into a small bowl - that's the spiral wanting to form a sphere. Don't fight it. The cup will deepen as you stop increasing in later rounds and the fabric grows up the sides.

Tip

Move your stitch marker up to the first stitch of round 3 before you start. If you forget, you can usually find the round boundary by looking for the small jog in the spiral, but the marker saves you the squint.

4

Step 4: Round 4 - Build the Eye Bobbles

3:05
Step 4: Step 4: Round 4 - Build the Eye Bobbles

Round 4 adds the signature frog eye bumps with bobble stitches. The full sequence: 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, bobble, sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, bobble, sc, inc, 2 sc, inc. You'll end with 24 stitches.

Each bobble is 5 double crochets worked into the same stitch and pulled through together. Yarn over, insert your hook, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through the first two loops only - that's one half-finished double crochet. Repeat four more times into the same stitch until you have six loops on your hook. Then yarn over once more and pull through all six. The bobble pops out the back of the fabric, which becomes the front of the frog.

Tip

If the bobble is sitting on the inside instead of the outside, you're working with the wrong side facing you. Flip the piece and continue - the bobble pops the direction you're looking at.

5

Step 5: Rounds 5-8 - Single Crochet the Head

5:20
Step 5: Step 5: Rounds 5-8 - Single Crochet the Head

Now for the easy part. Rounds 5 through 8 are plain single crochet all the way around - 24 stitches per round for four rounds. No increases, no bobbles, just steady stitching.

This is where the head shape forms. The walls grow straight up from the wider base of round 4, building the rounded dome where the safety eyes will sit. Keep your tension consistent so the fabric stays dense - any loose round will show as a visible seam later.

Tip

If you need to put the project down mid-round, slide the loop on your hook onto a stitch marker so it doesn't unravel. Don't pull the yarn tight - just clip the marker through the working loop.

6

Step 6: Insert the Safety Eyes

6:40
Step 6: Step 6: Insert the Safety Eyes

Place each 12 mm safety eye between rounds 4 and 5, directly underneath one of the eye bobbles. Push the post through the fabric from the outside in. You should feel it pop through cleanly between two stitches.

Before snapping on the washer, hold the frog up and check that both eyes are level and the spacing looks right. Once you snap the washer onto the back of the post, the eye is locked in forever - there's no removing it without cutting the fabric.

Tip

If you push the post through a stitch instead of between stitches, it'll stretch the yarn and the eye will sit crooked. Use the tip of your hook to gently spread the fabric until you find the gap between two stitches, then push the post through.

7

Step 7: Shape the Body, Arms, and Legs

8:00
Step 7: Step 7: Shape the Body, Arms, and Legs

Round 9 starts the neck shaping: 2 sc, invisible dec, repeated around. Round 10 narrows further with 4 sc + 1 dec patterns. Round 11 increases back out (2 sc, inc x 5) to widen into the body.

Round 12 places the arms. After 10 single crochets, work a 5-double-crochet bobble, then 4 more sc, then another bobble, then 4 more sc. That gives you two arms pointing forward at the right spacing. Rounds 13 and 14 are plain single crochet (20 stitches each round). Round 15 mirrors the arm placement to create the two legs at the bottom of the body.

Tip

If your arms or legs don't line up centered with the eyes, your tension is slightly different from Annabelle's - that's normal. Shift the bobble placement by one stitch left or right on subsequent rounds to get them lined up the way you want.

8

Step 8: Stuff, Close, and Finish

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Step 8: Step 8: Stuff, Close, and Finish

Stuff the body firmly with polyfill - more than you think you need. Underfilled amigurumi sags within a few weeks. The chenille yarn is very forgiving, so push the stuffing in until the frog holds its shape when you set it down.

The final round is 10 decreases all the way around to close the bottom. Slip stitch into the first stitch, cut your yarn with a long tail, and thread it through a yarn needle. Weave the needle through the front loops of each remaining stitch, pull tight to cinch the hole closed, and tie a small knot inside. Bury the tail in the body and snip it.

For the finishing touches, thread a length of pink yarn through your needle and stitch three small lines below each eye for blush. Then either embroider a smile with black floss or hot-glue on a felt smile applique. That's your frog.

Tip

If you skip the blush, the frog still reads as a frog. But the pink cheeks are what makes this design feel finished. They take less than a minute and use almost no yarn.

Products Used

☐ The Checklist

How to Crochet a Frog (Beginner Amigurumi Pattern)

Tools
5
Materials
5
Steps
8
Video
15 min

Your Guide

CrochetGrove

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