A scarecrow is a frame, some stuffing and old clothes. The build below takes an afternoon
and costs almost nothing if you already have a shirt and trousers destined for the bin.
What you need
Two poles - bamboo, broom handles or scrap timber. One about six feet for the spine, one
about four feet for the arms. Twine, a shirt, a pair of trousers, a hessian or burlap sack for
the head, a hat, and a bale or two of straw.
Straw beats hay. Hay holds moisture, rots faster and attracts mice. If you cannot get
straw, dry leaves, shredded paper or plastic bags all work and weigh less.
Making the frame hold together
Lash the crosspiece rather than nailing it. A clove hitch to start, several wraps around
the joint, then two or three wraps pulled between the poles to tighten everything, and finish
with a half hitch. That is a square lashing and it will outlast the clothes.
Nails split bamboo and work loose in wind. Twine does not.
Standing him up so he stays up
Sharpen the base of the long pole and drive it at least a foot into the ground, more in
soft soil. In an exposed spot, guy him with two lines to tent pegs, or set the pole in a
bucket of concrete and bury the bucket.
A scarecrow blown flat in the first gale is the usual failure, and it is always the base.
Does a scarecrow actually work?
Partly, and not forever. Birds learn quickly that something which never moves is not a
threat. What keeps it working is change - move him every couple of weeks, swap the hat, and
add something that moves or flashes. Strips of foil, old CDs on string, a loose ribbon on each
arm.
Loose, flapping clothing does more than a rigid figure ever will.
Making him last the season
Rain is the enemy. A hat with a brim keeps the worst off the head, and a bin liner worn
under the shirt keeps the stuffing dry. Re-stuff once mid-season as the straw settles.
If you want him for years rather than one autumn, use synthetic stuffing and outdoor
fabric. If you want him for a Halloween display, straw and a charity-shop shirt are
completely fine.
Giving him a face
A burlap sack stuffed and tied at the neck is the classic. Draw the face with permanent
marker or stitch it in wool. Buttons for eyes read better from a distance than anything
drawn.
Keep the features large and simple. Detail disappears from ten feet away, which is the
only distance anyone will see him from.