Spatchcocking is one cut. You take the backbone out, press the bird flat, and it roasts in
roughly half the time with skin that actually crisps all over instead of only on top.
It is the single biggest improvement you can make to a roast turkey, and the only reason
more people do not do it is that the bird no longer looks like the picture on the magazine
cover. It carves better, it cooks evenly, and nobody at the table is eating dry breast meat
while the thighs finish.
How long does a spatchcocked turkey take?
Roughly 6 to 7 minutes per pound at 450°F. A 14 lb bird lands around 70 to 80 minutes.
A conventional roast of the same bird is closer to three hours.
Rough guide, oven at 450°F:
- 10 to 12 lb - 55 to 70 minutes
- 12 to 14 lb - 70 to 80 minutes
- 14 to 16 lb - 80 to 90 minutes
- 16 to 18 lb - 90 to 105 minutes
Go by temperature, not the clock. 165°F in the thickest part of the breast and 175°F
in the thigh. Because the bird is flat, both hit their numbers at close to the same moment,
which is the entire point.
Why it cooks faster
A whole turkey is a thick, closed cavity. Heat has to work its way in from every side and
the dense thigh meat sits furthest from the surface. Flattening the bird turns it into a
single even layer maybe four inches thick, so the oven reaches all of it at once.
The second effect matters just as much. Every inch of skin is now facing up. On a
conventional roast, the underside sits in its own juices and steams.
What size turkey works
Anything up to about 16 lb spatchcocks comfortably and fits a standard half sheet pan.
Above that the bird starts hanging over the edges, and you want a full sheet pan or two
smaller birds. Two 10 lb turkeys cook faster than one 20 lb turkey and give you twice as
much skin.
Frozen birds need to be fully thawed. You cannot cut through a partly frozen backbone with
kitchen shears, and trying is how people cut themselves.
What you cut with
Heavy kitchen shears. Poultry shears if you have them, but any sturdy pair works. A knife
is the wrong tool - the backbone has ribs joining it every inch and shears go through those
in a series of short bites where a blade slips.
Cut down one side of the spine, then the other, and lift it out in one piece. Then press
hard on the breastbone with the heel of your hand until you feel it give. It cracks. That is
supposed to happen.
Do not throw the backbone away
It is the best stock you will make all year, and it is free. Brown it in the roasting pan
with an onion and cover with water while the bird is in the oven. The gravy is finished
before the turkey comes out.
The dry brine
Salt the flattened bird and leave it uncovered in the fridge overnight, ideally 24 hours.
The salt draws moisture out, dissolves into it, and gets pulled back in seasoned. The surface
dries out at the same time, and a dry surface is what crisps.
Skip the wet brine. It adds water to skin you are trying to dry out, and on a spatchcocked
bird there is no cavity to hold it anyway.
Common mistakes
Roasting too low. 450°F sounds aggressive and it is correct here - the bird is out
before it can dry, and lower temperatures give you flabby skin.
Skipping the rest. 20 minutes minimum, and it will still be hot. Carving straight away
puts the juice on the board instead of in the meat.
Crowding the pan. If vegetables are packed underneath, they steam the bird from below.
Give it a rack, or accept that the underside will not crisp.