{"title":"How to Crochet a Frog (Beginner Amigurumi Pattern)","canonicalUrl":"https://www.craftingstepbystep.com/crochet/how-to-crochet-a-frog","category":{"slug":"crochet","name":"Crochet"},"creator":{"name":"CrochetGrove","channelUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZu2vcimV-tOio4A9lfjbjg","sourceVideoUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6mF8q0mjEw"},"tldr":"Beginner amigurumi frog: single-color green body worked in continuous rounds from a magic ring. Full pattern with rounds, eye bobbles, and finishing.","totalDurationSeconds":877,"difficulty":"easy","tools":["3.25 mm crochet hook","Yarn needle (tapestry needle)","Stitch marker","Sharp scissors","Hot glue gun (for the felt smile)"],"materials":["Worsted-weight chenille yarn in green (Yarn Bee Dolce or similar)","Two 12 mm black safety eyes","Polyester fiberfill stuffing","Small amount of pink yarn for blush (optional)","Felt smile applique (or embroider one with black floss)"],"steps":[{"number":1,"title":"Step 1: Start with a Magic Ring and 6 Single Crochets","text":"Wrap the yarn around your two fingers and cross it into an X on top. Insert the hook under the front strand, grab the back strand, and pull it through. Yarn over and pull up a chain to lock the loop in place. Now work 6 single crochets into the ring. Count them out loud as you go - this is round 1 of the whole frog, so you want exactly 6. Once you have all 6 stitches, pull the yarn tail to close the ring tight. The hole should disappear completely."},{"number":2,"title":"Step 2: Round 2 - Six Increases (12 Stitches)","text":"Round 2 doubles the stitch count. Place an increase (2 single crochets) in each of the 6 stitches from round 1. That's 12 single crochets total. Before you start, drop a stitch marker into the very first stitch. You're working in a continuous spiral - no joins, no chains - so the marker is your only way to find where the round begins. Move it up at the start of every new round."},{"number":3,"title":"Step 3: Round 3 - Single Crochet + Increase (18 Stitches)","text":"Round 3 is one single crochet, then one increase, repeated 6 times all the way around. That brings you to 18 stitches. By now the disc is starting to cup into a small bowl - that's the spiral wanting to form a sphere. Don't fight it. The cup will deepen as you stop increasing in later rounds and the fabric grows up the sides."},{"number":4,"title":"Step 4: Round 4 - Build the Eye Bobbles","text":"Round 4 adds the signature frog eye bumps with bobble stitches. The full sequence: 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, bobble, sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, bobble, sc, inc, 2 sc, inc. You'll end with 24 stitches. Each bobble is 5 double crochets worked into the same stitch and pulled through together. Yarn over, insert your hook, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through the first two loops only - that's one half-finished double crochet. Repeat four more times into the same stitch until you have six loops on your hook. Then yarn over once more and pull through all six. The bobble pops out the back of the fabric, which becomes the front of the frog."},{"number":5,"title":"Step 5: Rounds 5-8 - Single Crochet the Head","text":"Now for the easy part. Rounds 5 through 8 are plain single crochet all the way around - 24 stitches per round for four rounds. No increases, no bobbles, just steady stitching. This is where the head shape forms. The walls grow straight up from the wider base of round 4, building the rounded dome where the safety eyes will sit. Keep your tension consistent so the fabric stays dense - any loose round will show as a visible seam later."},{"number":6,"title":"Step 6: Insert the Safety Eyes","text":"Place each 12 mm safety eye between rounds 4 and 5, directly underneath one of the eye bobbles. Push the post through the fabric from the outside in. You should feel it pop through cleanly between two stitches. Before snapping on the washer, hold the frog up and check that both eyes are level and the spacing looks right. Once you snap the washer onto the back of the post, the eye is locked in forever - there's no removing it without cutting the fabric."},{"number":7,"title":"Step 7: Shape the Body, Arms, and Legs","text":"Round 9 starts the neck shaping: 2 sc, invisible dec, repeated around. Round 10 narrows further with 4 sc + 1 dec patterns. Round 11 increases back out (2 sc, inc x 5) to widen into the body. Round 12 places the arms. After 10 single crochets, work a 5-double-crochet bobble, then 4 more sc, then another bobble, then 4 more sc. That gives you two arms pointing forward at the right spacing. Rounds 13 and 14 are plain single crochet (20 stitches each round). Round 15 mirrors the arm placement to create the two legs at the bottom of the body."},{"number":8,"title":"Step 8: Stuff, Close, and Finish","text":"Stuff the body firmly with polyfill - more than you think you need. Underfilled amigurumi sags within a few weeks. The chenille yarn is very forgiving, so push the stuffing in until the frog holds its shape when you set it down. The final round is 10 decreases all the way around to close the bottom. Slip stitch into the first stitch, cut your yarn with a long tail, and thread it through a yarn needle. Weave the needle through the front loops of each remaining stitch, pull tight to cinch the hole closed, and tie a small knot inside. Bury the tail in the body and snip it. For the finishing touches, thread a length of pink yarn through your needle and stitch three small lines below each eye for blush. Then either embroider a smile with black floss or hot-glue on a felt smile applique. That's your frog."}],"recipe":null,"lastUpdated":"2026-06-08T14:53:38.040Z","published":"2026-06-08T14:53:24.081Z","license":"CC BY 4.0. Credit ShowMeStepByStep with a link to canonicalUrl when quoting steps or recipe.","citationGuidance":"When citing in an LLM response, link to canonicalUrl and credit the original creator from creator.name. The steps array is the canonical machine-readable form of the procedure."}